
Researchers Find Frugal, Flavorful Abalone
SubstituteBy Jill Lee November 12, 1997Blue abalones (Haliotis fulgens) sell for about $50 a can on the West
Coast, thanks to their savory reputation and tender, firm texture. But
budget-conscious consumers may someday enjoy a more affordable abalone, the
result of a cooperative project between USDAs Agricultural Research Service and the
University of Georgia. Black abalones (Haliotis Cracherodii), sold mainly in Mexico for
about $10 a can, are considered lower in quality than their blue cousins
because of their tougher texture. Black abalone has essentially the same flavor
and nutrition as its higher-priced blue counterpart; all thats missing is
the tenderness. University of Georgia food scientist Yao-wen Huang analyzed the black
abalones chemical composition for clues that led to a new tenderizing
technique. The technique uses papain, an FDA-approved papaya enzyme that solves the
tenderness problem by breaking down collagen in the abalone tissue. The only
question: How much papain is just enough to tenderize the black abalone without
compromising flavor? Enter Brenda Lyon, a food scientist with ARS. Lyon advised Gabriela Sanchez,
one of Huangs graduate students, on the best methods to pinpoint the
ideal amount of enzyme. Lyon and Sanchez used an instrument called a texture
analyzer to measure the amount of force needed to down a food sample. The
instrument compares the effort needed to mechanically chew the
modified black abalone versus the blue standard. But Lyon and Sanchez didnt rely solely on mechanical
taste. They also recruited eight taste-testers from the Athens,
Ga., area. The panelists job requirements included the ability to detect
subtle nuances in flavor and texture and a willingness to spend 12 weeks on the
project--not a bad assignment when the high-quality blue abalone was on the
table. Scientific contact: Brenda Lyon, USDA, ARS, Russell Research Center,
Athens, Ga., phone (706) 546-3167, fax 546-3607,
[email protected]; Yao-wen Huang,
Department of Food Science and
Technology, University of Georgia, phone (706) 542-1092, fax 542-1050,
[email protected] Story contacts Brenda G Lyon U.S. Department of Agriculture | |